The Thrill of Blackwater Diving
It’s just past New Moon when the night sky is at its darkest when the dive boat starts to move away from the land. The lights of the town recede, and there is no light pollution anywhere.
The world feels so different out here, away from everything. Yet, here in the blackwater, reaching down to depths of 1000 ft and beyond, strange, and mysterious creatures live.
A glorious sunset as we get ready to leave for our dive. - Photo credit: Alexandra Ward
What Makes Blackwater Diving Special
Blackwater diving is something I would recommend to every experienced diver who wants to try something thoroughly different. A blackwater dive will take you outside of your comfort zone and is sure to be an intensely rewarding experience.
Being surrounded by a vast dark ocean is exhilarating. Plus, the strange creatures who come out of the blackness appear as mysterious as visitors from another world.
What To Expect Blackwater Diving
Blackwater diving has become increasingly popular in recent years. Underwater photographers especially love the challenge and opportunity that come with these dives. In addition, the chance to get close to otherworldly sea creatures often results in stunning photos.
A somewhat longer boat ride is required to get to sufficiently deep water where these creatures live. So, let’s get going!
We are relatively shallow here on the Caribbean shelf, so our aim tonight is a location that offers around 1000 ft of depth. A mixing of currents and nutrients attracts sea life up towards the surface at this depth. Our ride takes just over 30 minutes, taking us out way beyond the last set of islets that can be seen from the mainland.
Using GPS coordinates gathered with the help of local sea charts to reach the determined spot, the boat crew now starts to get the lines ready. A 10,000-lumen floodlight is tied to the end of each 60 ft line. This is designed to attract creatures from all around.
There are tethers on each line at 15 ft intervals. Each one of those also has a marker light where it attaches to the mainline. The dive boat now kills its engines, and the lines are put overboard. Each one is attached to a lit marker buoy, which in turn is attached to the boat.
Now it’s the divers’ turn. The divemaster leads the way, then as each diver enters the water, the crew hands down their photographic equipment to them. When blackwater diving, dive groups are always small. There are 4 divers in our group, as well as two pros. The lines double as descent lines and as each diver reaches their spot. Now the show begins.
Photo credit: Zoran Borojevic on Unsplash
Marine Life in Blackwater
First to arrive are a myriad of small fish buzzing around the light just like moths to a flame. Next, a chain of salps arrives. They circle the lights, turning as they move. Then, a long worm-like creature is twisting in the lights, this one a juvenile eel. And now, some beautiful delicate jellies are floating just at the edge of the lights.
No noise disturbs the water as the boat drifts. As I look out into the dark, I get this feeling of being very small in a very large ocean. It feels like it should be cold, but it’s not. Even during the night, water temperatures stay at a steady 27°C.
Suddenly I see movement behind me and a flash of white belly, then a wing, as two devil rays have joined us. These devil rays are small, no more than 3 feet across, and are a super-rare sighting. However not really suitable for photographing with our divers’ macro setups.
So, I just sit back to enjoy this precious moment, divers, dive boat, and creatures all drifting along together.
Considerations for Blackwater Diving
If you want to go blackwater diving, you should have some experience night diving. Being surrounded by totally dark water is the strangest feeling, so familiarity with looking after yourself and your equipment is required. So is controlling your buoyancy.
Additionally, you should also be comfortable diving in current. In the open ocean, around New Moon, currents tend to be strong. This should be especially considered when getting into the water, taking care of your photo equipment, and getting back onto the boat. For this reason, lines are provided throughout to keep you safe.
Remember that this is, above all, a macro dive. The bright lights tend to attract fish, jellies, and cephalopods, which are no more than a few inches in length.
Delicate jellies are familiar sights on blackwater dives. Photo credit: Wikimedia
Blackwater Diving Destinations
Blackwater Diving Destinations
There are several fantastic blackwater diving destinations. The below list was compiled by Dive Magazine.
#1 Palau
Here, deep water of over 3000 ft can be found close to the shore. The island is famous for its squid, which rise up to feed during the night.
#2 Kona, Hawai’i
Home to a rich variety of marine life, blackwater diving in Kona offers a multitude of larval fish and cephalopods.
#3 Singer Island, Florida
Set in the nutrient-rich Gulf stream, you have the chance to see many larval fish among the minuscule marine life in this popular dive spot.
#4 West Coast of Scotland
Famous for its basking shark diving, Oban off the West Coast of Scotland also has a blackwater diving experience for the truly dedicated.
#5 Roatan, Honduras
Located just off the Meso-American Barrier Reef, Roatan features strong currents and super-deep drop-offs, attracting many exciting creatures.
Final Thoughts on Blackwater Diving
Blackwater diving may not be for everybody. Some divers may feel daunted at the thought of diving in complete darkness over such great depth. But for me, blackwater diving is an extraordinary experience, and I’ve loved every blackwater dive I’ve been on
The chance of having never-before-seen encounters is enthralling. Plus, the feeling of freedom you get from going out on a boat at night and leaving all civilisation behind is addictive. Out there in the deep dark water, I am in awe at the immensity of our oceans.
About the Author
Alexandra fell in love with the underwater world when she was 10 years old. A fish ID expert and keen marine conservationist, she is now a PADI Master Instructor with 12 years of experience working in the Caribbean.