From Mayhem to Serenity: Photographing Whale Sharks

In October 2021, I was lucky enough to return to the Maldives after two amazing trips in 2014 and 2018. All three visits have been onboard M/Y Sachika for a week-long liveaboard cruising and diving the Central Atolls from Malé. The last two trips were group trips organised by The Scuba Place.

Coincidentally, all three trips have taken place in October, allowing me a good comparison of how things may have changed year by year. Each trip delivered unforgettable moments and was equally incredible.

However, this year really hit big, and it doesn't get much bigger than the biggest fish in the sea. After failing to spot them on previous trips, I finally got to see not one but two whale sharks in the Maldives. What an extraordinary dive, and here's how it happened.

Several snorkelers try to keep up with a whale shark at the surface.

On the second dive of day three, we headed to the dive site Maamigili Beru searching for whale sharks. Initially, the plan of action was to explore the open ocean outside the atoll, close to the reef wall, and snorkel at the surface should we see one.

Previously I have searched back and forth with no luck, standing patiently on the sides of the Dhoni with equipment on and camera in hand before eventually calling it and kitting up to dive. So, my expectations were kept relatively low as we made the journey from the main liveaboard boat towards the site.

However, rather quickly, there was a sense of urgency amongst the boat as the guides frantically called out to get ready. Was I finally going to see a whale shark in the Maldives? There was a strong sense of hope as the guides saw and got word from other boats of a large presence in the water. Sure enough, as we got closer, we saw the excitement from swimmers already in the water, and we were summoned to get ready at the side of the Dhoni.

It felt like a military mission as the Dhoni got into position, and the command Dive, Dive, Dive!!" was bellowed out from the guides onboard. After that, it was a case of every person for themselves as we plummeted in the water. I was nervous at first as jumping like this with camera in hand of flooding in my housing. But that was soon forgotten as I got my bearings and saw the mayhem unfold.

Once I checked my camera, it was time to jostle for position in the crowd and enjoy a moment with the majestic whale shark. It was a humorous sight as legs frantically kicked and arms flailed in an attempt to keep up with the beautiful beast. While the whale shark peacefully swam with a gentle wave of its tail, perplexed by all the attention from these awkward visitors in its ocean home.

Happily, I managed to get to the side of the whale shark and get some shots as it passed by. I was also thankful that all the swimmers respected the distance rules and didn't get in front or too close. However, I wasn't too impressed with the free-for-all aspect of the situation. At least the whale shark seemed to be quite chilled with our presence and didn't look to disappear immediately. 

Hawksbill turtle cruising the reef as a fellow diver watches on.

We were soon summoned back to the Dhoni to kit up and go diving. Again, a military mission was ahead as the boat positioned itself in front of the direction of the whale shark. This time we plummeted into the water with complete dive kits and got a final glimpse of the shark as it passed by and into the distance.

This time when I jumped in with my camera, it accidentally zoomed my lens in, which meant I missed some shots. However, the issue wasn't so drastic that it left me deflated, and I was happy with what I got. Although sad to see the shark go, I was actually pleased that we could finally relax a little and enjoy a chilled dive along the reef once it left.

The dive itself delivered some incredible encounters to add to the whale shark. A friendly hawksbill turtle was more than happy to cruise the reef stopping for the occasional munch and crunch close to the divers. It is always a pleasure to see turtles and watch how they feed and then head to the surface for a breath.

Soon after, we had some close encounters with circling whitetip reef sharks nearly in the grips of courtship. Three male whitetips were persistently pursuing a female around the reef to gain her attention and get the go-ahead for mating. Unfortunately for them, the female wasn't in the mood. She gave them the run-around before disappearing along the reef out of view.

A scorpionfish and sleeping nurse shark also added to the joys of a truly pleasurable dive. But, the best was yet to come!!

Female whitetip reef shark keeping the males at bay.

Next came the 3-minute safety stop, which was quite possibly the best of my life due to how unexpected it was. As we were floating mid-water, I got the attention of dive guide Big Ali to ask him to blow bubble rings to take photos of him doing so. As he took his reg out and started to blow rings, I lifted my camera to compose the shot.

As I looked at the display lining it up, I saw a shadow suddenly appear at the bottom of the screen behind Big Ali. What is that??? OH MY GOSH!! A whale shark on the safety stop, far away from the crazy crowds at the start of the dive. WOW, WOW, WOW!! I screamed with excitement, trying to alert the others and Big Ali, who was still leaning back, blowing rings utterly unaware of the shark.

I swam towards Ali, tapping him on the shoulder, and then proceeded towards the shark to take some of my favourite whale shark photos I've ever taken. For a moment, I felt complete serenity, as if it was just the whale shark and me in water at that time. Then, it slowly passed by, and we slowly watched as it disappeared along the reef.

A moment of serenity with this majestic whale shark.

It was only just over an hour of pure adventure, but it will stay with me for a lifetime. These are the moments that will never be forgotten, and I was so glad to be able to capture them with my camera and give others a sense of the joy that happened in that hour or so.

Granted, I was a little taken aback by the madness at the start and feel it might not be the best way for eco-tourism to be conducted. However, everyone kept their distance, and the shark seemed relaxed.

To have that special moment at the end of the dive is what keeps me coming back for more. I also hope that sharing the ocean's wonders encourages others to care and do more for their protection. 

If you're interested in seeing more of Sean's work, check out:

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